Black Mt Fridays!

For starters, I apologize for the lack of updates lately. Between starting my new job as head routesetter at Boulderdash, up in Thousand Oaks, setting another two or so days a week at Rockreation LA, coaching, preparing for my first semi-private clinic at Rockreation coming up tomorrow, and catching up with Game of Thrones, I can't say I've had enough time to make updating this here blog a priority. l. o. l.

Today I returned from two days in San Diego, where I was coaching at USA Climbing sport climbing Divisional Championships. I'm very proud to report that Natalie took fourth in girls B and Charlie took first in male Jr. in difficulty and speed. Looks like a few of us from LA will be heading to Atlanta for Nationals next month. (Which really isn't anything new for either of those two.)

As for my personal climbing, I've been getting out to Black Mt. for the past few Fridays. Sean, Jenny, Marina, and Anthony have rounded out the crew on various weeks. Lots of fun has been had, boulders have been discovered, and I've even continued to make progress on what we've now jokingly dubbed the "Pissed Pollo Project" (affectionately named after Itai Axelrad's try hard sound, but not necessarily the name that will stick if and when I ever actually send the thing).

obligatory Pink Crack warm up photo. Jenny Balmagia crushing.

Forgive me for the repetitive nature of the pics of this project, but I think it's a beautiful line and it's certainly my current obsession.

A few Fridays ago, we basically ended up climbing in a cloud in freezing conditions ... but I tried the pissed pollo proj anyway. Here I am doing the first move ...

... aand the second ...

... and holy crap look at that, I actually stuck the third move once! (Marina Campaña photos)

The cloud we were freezing / attempting to climb in

Sean sending "Born Under Punches" (v7)

A beautiful arete we found just under "Born Under Punches." Apparently it was not an FA.

Myself sending the same. (Jenny Balmagia photo)

This was the following week. Clearly some days are nicer than others! Sean Denny warms up in the sun.

Jenny Balmagia warming up on an unnamed v2.

Here is a view of the proj in all its glory. Can you tell why I'm obsessed?

Same move, different day. (Jenny Balmagia photos)

Trying to make the super technical heel-hook stay on the second move.

Figuring out magic "heel-hook on a spike above my head and hands" beta

Sometimes I've just gotta look around up there to remind myself how beautiful it is.

 

Jenny on "Born Under Punches" (v7)

Super close, though no send just yet.

Sean on an unnamed v5ish sloper problem below the lookout tower.

Myself sending the unnamed crimp line adjacent to the sloper problem.

And some pics from this most recent Friday. Left the camera in the bag for the attempts on the project this time.

 aaalmost executing the first move of "Bang On"

playing on the third move (of four)

Anthony sending NRA

Great view from the "Round Boulders" sector

Next weekend I'll be climbing on Vegas limestone and giving Charlie, Nat, and others a tour of Mt. Charleston, but the following I'll be back up at Black for the annual "Black Mt. Bash" (June 23rd).  Be there or be square.

From Rockreation to the Creek

On Sunday, Charlie and I went out to Malibu Creek with a bunch of strong young climbers from Rockreation (Natalie, Eva, Sami, and Pablo) and met up with recent LA transplants Culin and David. We headed straight for the Ghetto Wall, which was more crowded than I've ever seen it, and the kids got right to crushing on the steep pocketed faces.

Natalie Josefsberg warming up on "Johnny Can't Lead" (11a) with Culin Li attempting "Urban Struggle" (12a/b) in the background.

Culin taking the crux fall on "Urban Struggle."

 

Culin pulling through the crux on "Urban Struggle."

While I didn't climb much, I did give a go on Brenna, a Shawn Diamond route that I projected for a season back when I was in high school, but still haven't sent.

Getting into the meat of "Brenna." (13d)

Heel-toe cam trickery on "Brenna."

Swingandamiss. Just a bit too far to the right of the crux pocket on "Brenna."

As I said, it was crowded

Culin, Natalie, Charlie, and Sami all gave good efforts on Ghetto Blaster, the most classic line on the cliff.

Natalie Josefsberg starting up "Ghetto Blaster" (13a/b).

Pulling into the upper crux of "Ghetto Blaster" (13a/b).

Pablo came agonizingly close to sending "Urban Struggle" (12a/b). He'll send it next time for sure.

Pablo on the crux of "Urban Struggle"

 

Charlie went for a repeat of Ghetto Blaster, only to fall at the last move.

  

Big crossover on "Ghetto Blaster"

The start of the upper crux.

Aaaaand the fall!

All in all, I would say it was a great day out on the rocks! Hopefully I'll have more sending to report int he near future. Stay psyched!

Black Mt: Gate is Open!

Saturday was USA Climbing Sport Climbing Series Regional Championships at Boulderash, up in Thousand Oaks. Natalie and Charlie both took first in their age categories (B and JR, respectively), and the rest of the kids from Rockreation had a great showing too! Full results here.

Natalie Josefsberg onsighting climb number three.

Sunday was another great day, with a trip up to Black Mt. Brett, Kris, Miguel, Mariana, and myself all cruised out early and were lucky enough to find the second gate open! We were able to park just outside the still-closed gate to the Boulder Basin Campground, and hiked the few minutes up the trail to the classic Basin circuit to warm up.

Brett warming up.

Mariana on the classic "Pink Crack." Kris Linstrom photo.

After a few laps on Pink Crack, we opted to hike over to the Velvet Revolver area. After a few attempts, Brett was able to snag his 3rd or 4th repeat of the problem. Kris came agonizingly close, falling off the last move a few times! Good thing we'll be back to this part of the mountain very soon!

Bret repeating "Velvet Revolver."

Kris on "Velvet Revolver."

Check out that SDK (sick drop knee).

From Velvet, we headed just back up the trail for a minute to a cool project I found last summer. It isn't the most highball of lines, but what it lacks in exposure it makes up for with its powerful and tension-dependent moves. I had worked the line twice briefly last year, but we put more effort into it this time for sure. I have now done all but one move, so we know it goes! Psyched to get back to this thing soon!

Miguel Casar on the project.

Brett, taking in the view. Kris Linstrom photo.

My try hard face on the first move. Kris Linstrom photo.

Finally figuring out the beta for this move! Kris Linstrom photo.

Kris Linstrom photo.

If I get this far, it's over! Kris Linstrom photo.

After some work on the proj, we headed back to the main Basin area to try the DMMFP and Buzz Saw, both of which we couldn't quite send.

Kris on the "DMMFP."

Miguel on the "DMMFP."

Needless to say, we are psyched to go back to Black Mountain soon. This weekend, however, looks like it will be for sport climbing. Stay psyched and see you out there!