On the Road and Back ... Thanksgiving in Bishop and three days in Flagstaff.

As I have done many years in the past, I spent this Thanksgiving up in Bishop, climbing on boulders and camping with some of my favorite people.
Alexandra, Kristiana, Culin, and I left LA on Wednesday before Thanksgiving and unfortunately got in so late that we had hardly an hour to climb before darkness.

Thanksgiving Day saw us running around The Buttermilks at full speed. After a quick warmup around the Birthday Boulders, we headed over to the Cave Boulder for Alexandra and Culin to try the "Cave Problem" (v6).

Alexandra working the "Cave Problem" (v6)

Next we zipped over to the Drifter Boulder, for Culin to try "High Plains Drifter," a classic V7 that he nearly sent last December. After a few attempts, Culin was grabbing the topout jugs and running up the glory slab.

Culin topping out after his send of "High Plains Drifter" (v7),

 Anthony and I tried "Plain High Drifter" a few times, and we both came agonizingly close to sticking the crux move, a lurpy deadpoint from a left hand micro-crimp to a bad right hand crimp

Anthony Tarascio attempting "Plain High Drifter" (v12). That left hand crimp is horrendous.

Lastly, I started a tradition of attempting "Center Direct" in the afternoon/evening of every day. I punted off the last move of this one several times last year, so I had hoped to send it quickly this trip. Unfortunately, the crux undercling deadpoint to the slopey crimp proved just as difficult as last season. I did finally stick it from the ground on Saturday, but slipped out of the finishing jug and fell. Talk about punting!

Devlin Gandy attempting to repeat "Center Direct."

 Friday was somewhat more of the same. We cruised around The Buttermilks and finished the day at the Grandma Peabody, after a few very close attempts on "Plain High" by Anthony and me.

 At the end of the day, having rallied a sea of foam, the young Mirko Caballero pulled off an incredible ascent of "Evilution Direct," one of the most inspiring sends I've witnessed in a while! Thankfully, Mirko just cruised through the headwall and walked the upper slab with ease.

Mirko Caballero sending "Evilution Direct" (v11) on Friday.

Mirko Caballero topping out "Evilution Direct."

 Satuday was so eventful that I didn't end up taking a single picture. Joking aside, after Culin tried "Soul Slinger" for a bit and a quick session on "Plain High," our crew went behind the Drifter to try the problems on the Lower Smoking Boulder. I didn't score any flashes, but sent the "Croft Problem" (v8) and the unnamed, though unique and cool v7, both second try. Of course, punting off of "Center Direct" at the end of the day was in obligatory, as described above.

Sunday was a short one, and not too eventful. Culin came very close to "Soul Slinger" and I somehow flashed "One Mule Wonder" (v10/9?) in my approach shoes. Not that that was a good omen of things to come. I failed to stick the deadpoint on "Center Direct" even once, and we packed the car up early and hit the road for LA.

Culin Li working "Soul Slinger" (v9).

Culin coming oh so close on "Soul Slinger" (v9).

Morgan Roth waves from atop the Green Wall Boulder

Alexandra and I weren't back in LA for very long before before we headed to Flagstaff this past Wednesday to set for Beta Bouldering gym's "Swole Bowl" competition.
Luckily, some friends who live in Flag took us out to an incredible area with limitless potential. Maybe one day we'll be able to give more explicit directions, because there is a lifetime of perfect rock there.

Thomas demonstrates that there are FAs for days.

Matt climbing on the Debt Ceiling.

Friday was a routesetting day of epic proportions. With every wall in Beta Bouldering stripped, we went to town and set 60 boulder problems between the redpoint round and the finals.
I was really psyched on the angles, hold selection, and volume placement, and set five of what I would say are some of the coolest problems I've ever set.

Setting madness in preparation for the "Swole Bowl."

Climb-It tufas inspired a very cool V8/9 that incorporated two knee-bars.

Unfortunately, we couldn't stick around to watch the competition on Saturday, because I had to be in San Diego to coach at ABS Youth Regional Championships. We left Flagstaff late and drove 8 hours through the night and stayed with a friend not far from the gym in SD.
As expected, Regionals was a great event! The setting seemed well spread, and the problems looked both challenging and fun. Team Anonymous represented with Culin taking 3rd place in Male A and Natalie taking 2nd in Female A, after a super-final with Sara Pearce.

Now that we're back in LA, it's back to the routesetting grind until a New Year's trip to Las Vegas and Red Rocks. Stay tuned ...  and climb safe!

Birthday Challenge 2013

Well, another year has passed, and with my birthday landing on November 10th, it was time for my second annual Birthday Challenge. Last year, I climbed 27 problems in Joshua Tree that I had never climbed before, so naturally I had to continue that tradition this year. I decided a while back that I wanted to go to The Underground, a remote sector atop Queen Mountain, a far hike over rugged terrain, but rumored to have the best rock in Joshua Tree. I had never been to The Underground, so it seemed like a perfect area to attempt to send 28 new problems.
After over an hour, we reached the top of Queen Mt. and climbed a few problems on The Watchtower boulder, officially beginning the challenge.

#1, "Left VNothing" (V0)
#2, "All Along the Watchtower" (V2)

From there we hiked a further 30 to 40 minutes and made it to The Underground proper, where I really set to work. (All photos, Alexandra Fox)

#3, "Kranium R" (V3)
#4, "Kranium L" (V3)

#5, "Misfire" (v6)

#6, "Intruder" (V5)

#7, "V1 Center" (V1)

Putting on the shoes in front of the exit of "The Heart."

#8, "The Heart" (V4?)

Looking up through the hueco on "The Heart."

 

#9, "4:20 at The Underground" (V4)

#10, "Body and Soul" (V5)

Tell me this rock doesn't look just like Hueco.

For my eleventh problem, after a decent warm up, I decided to try "Dark Matter" (v9), one of the few 5-star boulders in Miramontes' guide. I got lucky with a third-try send, managing somehow not to punt off of the topout.

#11, "Dark Matter" (V9)

Sticking the crux with the SDK and sending by the skin of my teeth on the third go. Kevin with the spot.

We didn't get many pictures after that, but here is the rest of the list:

#12. "Sketch" (V4)

#13. "When Pigs Fly" (V0)

#14. "Fight Club" (V5)

#15. "Six Degrees of Kevin Bacon" (V3)

#16. "Nicole Face" (V4)

#17. ""Saucer Full of Secrets" (V1)

#18. "Warm Up Problem" (V2)

#19. "Feature Problem" (V3)

Epic View

#20. "V1 Left" (V1)

#21. "V1 Reverse" (V1)

#22. "V1 Traverse" (V2)

#23. "Kranium C" (V3)

#24. "Unnamed V0" (V0)

#25. "Another Stupid Traverse" (V1)

#26. "Brain Teaser" (V0)

#27. "Breezy" (5.7)

#28. "The Swallows Tail" (V0)

 

I finished the challenge with"The Swallows Tail" for number 28, a V0 jug traverse on the same arch feature as "The Heart," It made for a beautiful view as the sun dipped on the horizon, but we still had close to a two-hour hike out to make in the dark.

Finishing the challenge on top of "The Swallows Tail" (V0).

Needless to say, the hike out was a challenge! Searching for kairns by headlamp, moving slowly from one rock-pile to the next, was definitely type-2 fun, but it made for a truly full-value day.

Of course I owe a huge thanks to everyone who came out and supported. That hike/scramble approach is no cake walk, and I really appreciate your support, pads, and spots. Big thanks to Kevin, who helped us get to The Underground in the first place, as well as for providing beta and psych on "Dark Matter!" Props on your send of it too! Huge thank you as well to Jeremy Meza, who helped us get out of there in the darkness! I also particularly owe a huge thank you to Alexandra, who acted as official record keeper and made sure I finished all 28 problems before the sun went down.

We have lots of day trips and longer trips to Bishop and Red Rocks planned for the coming months, so hopefully I'll be able to share more soon.

Cheers, and climb safe!

Black Mountain Days (Daze)

Over the last few weekends, crews have been getting back into the groove of regularly visiting Black Mt. Specifically, we've been hitting the YMCA and the Chappies areas, where those who have yet to send Beowulf are coming close to doing so, and those who have done that 4-star line have been finding and cleaning new ones. It's been a fun few weekends, and the temps are only getting better up there. The Black Mt. season is in full swing!

Bridget working out her beta on "Beowulf" (v11)

Kody coming close to the send.

Alex works the beginning of "Beowulf."

Cody sticking the big move.

How many boulderers does it take to move a boulder?

Anthony Tarascio working "Hugawar" (v10/11)

Myself, cleaning an amazing new line at the YMCA. This one will be EPIC.

The line, all chalked up and looking ready to go. Methinks a rappel inspection is in order!

Devlin making the dropknee work for him on "Beowulf."

San Jacinto peak, seen from the YMCA area.

Devlin on a new moderate that I found, cleaned, and FKA'd at the YMCA, "Bambi's First Waltz" (v2/3).

Ambrose on the same

Needless to say, I'm psyched to go back and try some of the new projects! Stay psyched, climb safe, and see you out there!

Return to Craig's Cave

No, I didn't stop climbing outside, though I'm setting 3 to 4 days a week at various gyms.
I've been out climbing at Malibu Creek a few times (check the twins' post here), and I intend to keep going back until I send a few things, but this weekend I went back to Vegas for a change of scenery. On Saturday I met up with Max Moore, Craig Berman, and Miranda (Craig's fiancé, congrats guys!) for a lovely day of pulling powerful moves on the horizontal roof that they've been developing over the past few years. You may recall it from posts such as this one and this one. I was pretty psyched to send "Rain Delay," a new problem put up by Max earlier this season, on my first try and Craig went home with a send as well.

Myself snagging the second ascent of Max Moore's "Rain Delay" (v10) on my first try. Psyched for the personal first. Photo: Max Moore

The big move to the boob hold. Photo: Max Moore

Photo: Max Moore

Craig Berman, original developer of the cave, sending his longest ever project with the second ascent of Max's "Unibrow" (v11).

Craig looking serious as he heel-toe cams against his own shin to grab the good hold.

Craig sending "Unibrow."

Miranda working "Flat Spin" (v8).

There are some damn hard moves in the cave, like this sdk on Max's "Bargy" (v12) Photo: Max Moore

Doing the heel-toe against the shin while working the moves on "Bargy"/"Unibrow"/other link-ups. Photo: Max Moore

Same move, different perspective. Photo: Max Moore

Max is psyched!

By the end of the session, Max was climbing in the dark, and ended up falling on the last move of his epic link-up project. A "next day for sure" thing.

I'm totally psyched to get back up to Mt. Charleston very soon for some bolt clipping, but I might also have to swing back by the cave a couple of times too to clean up some stuff. Stay psyched, and see you out there!