Black Mountain Days (Daze)

Over the last few weekends, crews have been getting back into the groove of regularly visiting Black Mt. Specifically, we've been hitting the YMCA and the Chappies areas, where those who have yet to send Beowulf are coming close to doing so, and those who have done that 4-star line have been finding and cleaning new ones. It's been a fun few weekends, and the temps are only getting better up there. The Black Mt. season is in full swing!

Bridget working out her beta on "Beowulf" (v11)

Kody coming close to the send.

Alex works the beginning of "Beowulf."

Cody sticking the big move.

How many boulderers does it take to move a boulder?

Anthony Tarascio working "Hugawar" (v10/11)

Myself, cleaning an amazing new line at the YMCA. This one will be EPIC.

The line, all chalked up and looking ready to go. Methinks a rappel inspection is in order!

Devlin making the dropknee work for him on "Beowulf."

San Jacinto peak, seen from the YMCA area.

Devlin on a new moderate that I found, cleaned, and FKA'd at the YMCA, "Bambi's First Waltz" (v2/3).

Ambrose on the same

Needless to say, I'm psyched to go back and try some of the new projects! Stay psyched, climb safe, and see you out there!

Today I finally sent Beowulf at the YMCA camp area of Black Mountain after three consecutive Sundays of work. After Anthony Tarascio's ascent a couple of days ago this makes mine the fifth, unless someone else snuck a send in there in the last two days, but I'm gonna venture to say that's not likely. Consensus grade seems to be V11, which I guess means it's the hardest thing I've bouldered, although when I actually sent it (third try today) it didn't feel super hard. I guess that's how redpointing works though. It is a power-endurance, or "resistance" as the Euros say, problem, with a pretty hard throw to a jug at move thirteen, followed by a topout on a very very tall, yet highly featured slab. If you are interested in hard problems in SoCal, Beowulf should most definitely be at the top of your list. I asked Maya's brother Alon if he wanted to lend me his fancy new video camera, but he did not, so you'll have to settle for a still photo of one of the cooler moves (which is also pictured several times in the last two posts.)


Afterward, I tried a heinous little sit start to a beautiful V2, then drove back to Boulder Basin, where I repeated Where Boneheads Dare (highball V5, but the crux is the second move) and attempted Buzz Saw, a V10 with some bad edges on the same boulder, which did not go down.

If anyone wants to go climbing anywhere next weekend, Black Mt, Malibu Creek, Boney Bluff or Echo, Horse Flats, Tram, literally anywhere in SoCal, I am SO down now that I am free of this project. PSYCHED.

more YMCA

I have been working 12 hour days on average here in LA, but I have still found the time to make it to the rock gym two nights a week and outside on the weekend. Today a group of us drove up to Black Mountain from LA and enjoyed a perfect day of bouldering. My main desire was to try to send the line Alex and Ian sent last week (see previous post), which Ian has dubbed Beowulf, and Maya thinks looks like an overhanging butt. On the way in, we stopped at group camp 4 and 5 to warm up.

Here are a couple shots of Michelle sending a nice crimpy warmup.



After a couple problems we got on Soul Snatch, which I tried during the Birthday Bash weekend, but greased off of repeatedly. Today the temps were much better than back in August, and both Steve and I were lucky enough to send this gem, with Spencer, Will and Jeff all coming very close too.





Then we drove up to the YMCA Camp area and met up with Ian, Alan, Alex, A.ron and others. Pretty much as soon as we got there A.ron got the probable FA of this little line.



Then Will, Jeff and Steve (who flashed in great style) climbed on Ghost Dog, the beautiful V8 highball I posted photos of last week. Here are some more shots of it.





Finally A.ron told me to get off the boulder and put on my shoes to climb on Beowulf and I started giving it some effort. Unfortunately, I did not send, but I easily completed the crux throw that I could not do last week and made several good links. Sent it in two parts with good overlapping linkage.

Two pics of Steve on the lower section of Beowulf.



Myself linking through the finish of Beowulf, or as Maya calls it, "the butt problem."






Next week the same LA crew plus some others are going to Bishop. I'll join them if I can, and if I can't perhaps I will get back to Black and send this all time classic problem.

YMCA Camp

Went up to Black Mountain on Sunday and met up with Ian, Bridget, Alex, Anthony and Nick. We started just a little way up the group camp road and then headed up to the YMCA Camp area. These areas of Black Mt, which are little traveled, hold seriously massive potential. I can't believe that I've lived in SoCal and Vegas for so many years of my life and never climbed there (though a decent amount at the Tramway) until A.Ron and Buck's birthday bash last month. I now realize just how much of a mistake that was.
Warming up at the YMCA area


There was an epic project up there that the whole crew had been working Saturday, and on Sunday Ian and Alex got the first and second ascents respectively. The beauty climbs out a cave on perfect incut crimps, busts a big move to a jug at the lip, and tops out REALLY high on good holds and a lesser angle. Pretty damn aesthetic if you ask me. I'd venture to say 4.5 stars. As of yesterday, Ian had not yet come up with a name.











Here is a classic called Ghost Dog, that Ian put up during the beginning of the summer I guess. It is around v8ish and also rather aesthetic and a little bit off the deck. A new school classic for sure, with a big move to a jug at the lip.




Going back next weekend, unless something serious happens to change those plans. So psyched.