Another Horse Flats Day

I spent Saturday up at Horse Flats with a great crew: Itai Axelrad, Charlie Andrews, Christina Pilo, Brett Gottdener, "Ninja" Kris Linstrom, and Richie Wong. Unfortunately, Brett is nursing an injured finger, so he didn't really get to climb, but everyone else went home with some new sends.

After a long warmup, during which Charlie, Itai and I did the Peanut Problem (v7) and the classic Bow Sprits (v2/v4 sds), we tried the nicely patina'd, steep face of Arbor Day. The three of us traded attempts from the sit start, climbing powerful, tensiony moves on incut holds, only to fall at least once each off of the top. After the rest of the crew arrived at the boulder and Kris quickly sent the stand start (v5), Charlie and I were re-motivated for the sit, but we were thrown a curveball when Charlie broke a crimp off the lower section. We figured out some slightly different beta and after a few tries we both sent the full line. Arbor Day SDS, is even better in its newly broken state, and Charlie and I both felt that it would be fair to call this one v8. The bottom climbs really well, but we didn't manage to get any good photos or footage of the full line.

Kris sending "Arbor Day Stand"

While the rest of the crew held back for a little while at Bow Sprits, I took Charlie and Itai over to Blank Generation, a short, powerful problem that I was able to send recently. Itai managed to FLASH the full line, and Charlie managed the send after a handful of close calls. Way to go guys! There is video of Itai's flash, so watch the Axelrad twins' blog for that.

Charlie Anrews sending "Blank Generation SDS" (v10)

Charlie sticking the crux of "Blank Generation"

Charlie holding that swing like it's nothing.

 

 

After Blank Generation, we met up with the rest of the crew at Orange Flambé, another area classic that I've tried here and there over the years. The delicate face saw ascents by Charlie, Itai, and Kris, but neither Christina or I could seal the deal. Looks like we'll have to return for it another day.

Myself starting out on "Orange Flambé" (photo: Richie Wong)

Ninja Kris starting "Orange Flambé"

 

Pulling the first crux (photo by Richie)

Itai past the crux and heading for the topout.

Kris

Charlie gunning for the top of "Orange Flambé"

From Orange Flambé, Itai, Charlie, and I explored the Titanium Man cluster of boulders for a bit, finding one amazing, tall wall of crimps that we figured would best be left for another climber on another day. As the afternoon stretched on, we decided to head out, but stopped at one of the earlier boulders in the main area to try a harder looking line to the left of an obvious jughaul, just off the trail. We all sent the unknown problem in short order and felt that it made a perfect ending to a nice long day of bouldering.

Itai on our last problem of the day.

  We made the long hike back to the car, parked way out by the gate to the Christian Camp, since the road to the campgrounds is still "closed for the season" and reflected on an awesome day on excellent California granite. 

What a view. Ridges of the San Gabriel Mountains, seen from Horse Flats.

Stay psyched you weekend-warriors and full-time rock grapplers alike. Hope to see you out on the rocks!

Blank Generation Vid

Here is a little video of Saturday's send. Big thanks to Alex Chujo for capturing the footage and putting this together!




What you can't really tell from the video is just how small and sharp that right hand crimp is!

Stay psyched everyone, and see you out on the rocks!

A Nice Day at Horse Flats

Horse Flats is an area in the San Gabriel Mountains that I visited frequently for bouldering when I was in High School. I had not been up there in years, so I figured it would be a nice change of pace this Saturday to get Natalie (a young competitor that I coach) on some new granite boulders. I had forgotten just how good the rock is up there, as well as how long the hike is with two gates on the way to the campground closed.

I swear I didn't mean to sandbag everyone by saying it was only a 15 minute hike; it actually is when the gates are open! Oh well, so 45 minutes after we began hiking, we reached the first boulder, the brilliant and tall V2, Bow Sprits.  Our entire crew of Jeff Blum, Piper Michelle Yi, Natalie Josefsberg, and myself all ran a lap or two on the line, which is composed of two cruxy moves followed by perfect patina jugs.

Piper starting into the problem.

Natalie cruising the crux pull (Piper photo)

Natalie getting some air between her and the ground on the classic "Bow Sprits" (v2) (Piper photo)

Next, we headed over to the classic B1 traverse and the tall warm ups behind it. I was a little preoccupied with spotting, coaching, and spraying beta to get out the camera, but suffice it to say that everyone sent more than one problem and Natalie flashed the fun and challenging B1 Traverse (V5).

Natalie Josefsberg flashing the "B1 Traverse" (v5) (photo by Lisa Josefsberg)

We popped over a couple boulders to the lowball yet fun The Falcon and also did the unnamed v4 on the Blank Generation boulder before trying the business of Blank Generation itself.

Jeff pulling the crux of "The Falcon" (v5)

Jeff getting out of the pool on "The Falcon"

After a while of debating which hard line to try, the intimidating and tall Sword of Damocles (v8) or the shorter and more powerful Blank Generation (v10), we opted for the latter.

Jeff Blum on "Blank Generation" (Piper photo)

When I was frequenting Horse Flats back in the day I tried this line more times than I can remember, and it always felt near impossible. This day, however, I grabbed the left hand hold at the end of the long, powerful crux move on my first try, and I knew it was the day to send. After a few test burns to feel out the move, I finally started from the sit, made the throw off of the sharp right hand crimp, stuck the pinch on the lip with my left hand, controlled the swing, and managed the tricky topout. Needless to say, I was VERY psyched! Our new friend Alex got video of the send, which I'll post when it's available.

Myself sending "Blank Generation" (pics by Piper)

Mid throw on "Blank Generation"

Flipping the right palm to mantle out "Blank Generation"

The sun was getting low in the sky at this point, so we opted to head out and return another day to send the classics The Sword of Damocles and Orange Flambé (both v8). We had a nice dinner at the famous Newcomb's Ranch restaurant and bar, near Horse Flats on the winding mountain highway, and reflected on another beautiful day in the mountains during our drive back into the bustle and smog of Los Angeles.

Black Mountain isn't the only local bouldering spot with beautiful sunsets. The view along the hike out from Horse Flats.

With the weather as good as it's been lately, I hope to keep getting out on the weekends and trying to put down more boulder problems. Stay psyched, and see you out there!