Sunday, October 25, 2009

more YMCA

I have been working 12 hour days on average here in LA, but I have still found the time to make it to the rock gym two nights a week and outside on the weekend. Today a group of us drove up to Black Mountain from LA and enjoyed a perfect day of bouldering. My main desire was to try to send the line Alex and Ian sent last week (see previous post), which Ian has dubbed Beowulf, and Maya thinks looks like an overhanging butt. On the way in, we stopped at group camp 4 and 5 to warm up.

Here are a couple shots of Michelle sending a nice crimpy warmup.

After a couple problems we got on Soul Snatch, which I tried during the Birthday Bash weekend, but greased off of repeatedly. Today the temps were much better than back in August, and both Steve and I were lucky enough to send this gem, with Spencer, Will and Jeff all coming very close too.

Then we drove up to the YMCA Camp area and met up with Ian, Alan, Alex, A.ron and others. Pretty much as soon as we got there A.ron got the probable FA of this little line.

Then Will, Jeff and Steve (who flashed in great style) climbed on Ghost Dog, the beautiful V8 highball I posted photos of last week. Here are some more shots of it.

Finally A.ron told me to get off the boulder and put on my shoes to climb on Beowulf and I started giving it some effort. Unfortunately, I did not send, but I easily completed the crux throw that I could not do last week and made several good links. Sent it in two parts with good overlapping linkage.

Two pics of Steve on the lower section of Beowulf.

Myself linking through the finish of Beowulf, or as Maya calls it, "the butt problem."

Next week the same LA crew plus some others are going to Bishop. I'll join them if I can, and if I can't perhaps I will get back to Black and send this all time classic problem.

Monday, October 19, 2009


Went up to Black Mountain on Sunday and met up with Ian, Bridget, Alex, Anthony and Nick. We started just a little way up the group camp road and then headed up to the YMCA Camp area. These areas of Black Mt, which are little traveled, hold seriously massive potential. I can't believe that I've lived in SoCal and Vegas for so many years of my life and never climbed there (though a decent amount at the Tramway) until A.Ron and Buck's birthday bash last month. I now realize just how much of a mistake that was.
Warming up at the YMCA area

There was an epic project up there that the whole crew had been working Saturday, and on Sunday Ian and Alex got the first and second ascents respectively. The beauty climbs out a cave on perfect incut crimps, busts a big move to a jug at the lip, and tops out REALLY high on good holds and a lesser angle. Pretty damn aesthetic if you ask me. I'd venture to say 4.5 stars. As of yesterday, Ian had not yet come up with a name.

Here is a classic called Ghost Dog, that Ian put up during the beginning of the summer I guess. It is around v8ish and also rather aesthetic and a little bit off the deck. A new school classic for sure, with a big move to a jug at the lip.

Going back next weekend, unless something serious happens to change those plans. So psyched.

Thursday, October 15, 2009

This is a painting I recently finished for Las Vegas-based public relations firm Forte Creative Media, soon to be featured on the landing page of their website.

As much as I would love to crank out more paintings right now, I'm going to be working in LA for a couple of months, so I might be limited to drawings and prints. Prints are still cool though. Stay tuned for climbing shiz and art work.

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Today was a fine day out in Red Rock's Kraft Boulders and Gateway Canyon areas. Went out with Hans Sachs and Craig Berman and climbed on three distinct and proud lines.

First up was a superb crimpy roof climb reminiscent of Hueco called "Bitch Slap Five." I guess it is a relatively new problem and probably in the V9 range. Craig and I both sent it, with Hans coming excruciatingly close. I'm sure you'll do it next time, Hans!



Then we hiked around the corner to this puppy. We are not sure of its name, but it is super proud from the low start. Luckily we all did this. Craig and Hans both flashed, but I took a second try, falling after the crux on my first go.

Then we hiked over to this area that is still being developed and attempted a problem that Pete Lowe put up the other day, which he called "Americana Exotica," also in the 9 range. I thought it felt impossible, but I do not have the strongest biceps.

This is the view from "Americana Exotica"

Today was also my last day climbing in Vegas for a while. Thursday I'm headed to LA to take a temporary job until the end of December. Then I'll be in Israel (and London for two days) for a bit visiting Maya's family, as well as climbing. I think we get back stateside around January 12th. Worry not loyal readers, updates will continue with frequency. Some artwork for your eyeballs coming SOON.