Sport Climbing Psych! Photodump

Well since my last post a lot has happened, but the highlights revolve around coaching the kids three days a week for the six week between ABS Youth Divisionals and Nationals, as well as a ton of route setting, nursing my injured finger, and trying to gain endurance for an attempt to become a sport climber again.
Check out videos of Team Anonymous at Nationals over at our team blog.

Lately, I've been getting back onto the rock a little bit to see how the transition to sport climber is coming. The good news is, I'm starting to feel it, though I'm not where I want to be yet.

During our first day back out, Charlie Andrews snagged a last-try ascent of Shawn Diamond's Malibu Creek testpiece, Lateralus, his first 5.14a. More pics here.

Charlie Andrews warming up on "Ghetto Crossing" (5.13a).

Charlie sending "Lateralus" (5.14a). Maddy Voloshin Photo.

  This past Sunday, a small group of us headed out to Boney Bluff, a savage little sport cliff in the Santa Monica Mountains, with over a dozen 5.13's.

Formations of the Backbone Range from the Sandstone Peak Trailhead.

 Facundo Langbehn was able to send Skinny White Boy (.12d) second go and Sureshot (.13a) on his third.  I narrowly missed sending Sureshot as well, falling with my fingertips just brushing the thank god jug below the chains.

Facundo sending "Skinny White Boy" (.12d)

Facundo Langbehn sending "Sureshot" (5.13a).

Facundo about to clip the chains.

Needless to say, I'm psyched to get back to Boney Bluff next Sunday and get a few sends this time!

Anonymous Climbing Team Blog

Heeeey there everyone. So I haven't updated lately due to the collateral ligament in my left ring finger that I tore about three weeks ago. I've been using it as an excuse to take some time off and start a new training cycle, starting with a few weeks of pure endurance climbing, pulling on holds that won't tweak out the finger.

However, I did take the time to start a blog for my youth climbing team, Anonymous.

Click that link for some videos from divisionals.

Thanks for tuning in, and I'll get back to the regular updates soon.

Cheers and climb safe!

Red Rocks New Year's Photodump

Well ringing in the new year in Vegas was a blast. I bouldered in Kraft and Gateway Canyon four days in a row with great crews of wonderful people and New Year's Eve brought friends old and new.
For the sake of getting something posted, I'm just going to dump a bunch of photos without too much commentary.

The Cube from the Kraft Boulders.

A Clockwork Orange

Fear of a Black Hat

Max on "Book of Nightmares"

Anthony on the same

Blood brothers?

Seek and Destroy

Roman on "Bitch Slap 5"

Next week, I'll be heading to Tucson for ABS Divisional championships, but hopefully I'll be able to post about some sends the following week. Have fun and climb safe out there.

Another Day in JTree and Four in Bishop

Last Sunday, I went out to JTree with Patrick Luther for a short bouldering day trip. It was a beautiful day with perfect temps, aside from the intermittent freezing wind. I managed to punt off of the very end of Cave Man Sit Start twice, but at least Patrick managed to send. Needless to say, I'm looking forward to going back to that one.

Hidden Valley Campground

Patrick starting "Cave Man Sit" (v10)

Patrick climbing through the tunnel on "Cave Man Sit."

Vid of myself punting off the end of Cave Man Sit.

A coyote came out to hang for a while at the end of the day.

After a few days of route setting back in town, I picked up Culin on Friday and headed straight for the Buttermilks to give him his first introduction to outdoor bouldering. On Friday, we stayed close to the road and played around on Grandma Peabody and the Drifter Boulder. On Grandma, Culin was able to flash Go Granny Go Right Exit, and I managed to fall off the last move of Center Direct twice.  Over on the Drifter, Culin very narrowly missed sending High Plains Drifter, one of the most classic lines in the 'Milks. We had the good fortune of running into my pal Anthony Tarascio, with whom we climbed each of the next three days.

Culin Li coming very close on "High Plains Drifter."

Saturday, we headed back out to the 'Milks to give Culin a better tour. We warmed up at the Birthday Boulders, where Culin sent Birthday Direct (v3) and onsighted The Rising (v4).
Then we hiked up the hill to the Fly Boy Boulder, where Anthony, Chris Chen, Christine Ubaldi and I joined the growing session on Haroun and the Sea of Stories (v11 low start) and Fall Guy (v9) neither of which I could send. Culin tried Fly Boy (v6 stand / 8 sit) a few times and made quick work of the Fly Boy Arete before we ended the session and grabbed some burritos at Las Palmas back in town.

Culin sending "Fly Boy Arete."

 

Sunday,  we were all looking to get away from the crowds of the central Buttermilks, but wanting to continue climbing on granite, we opted to make the seemingly never-ending uphill hike to the Druid Stones. 

After a few super moderates, we ran laps on the mega classic, Arch Drude. I hadn't been up there before, but according to Anthony, something might have broken down low on the climb, increasing its difficulty slightly.

Anthony sending "Arch Drude" (v5) with the White Mountains across the valley.

Culin sending "Arch  Drude."

Culin pulling into the topout of "Arch Drude."

Myself sending "Arch Drude."

Chris led the charge to the immaculate Thunder Wall, where after quick sends of Kredulf (one of the best, sandbagged, v4s I've ever touched) and Denton's Diversion, I followed Chris and Anthony's lead and began working the sit start, Denton's Remorse. I'm very psyched to say that, after working out the beta and a couple of false starts, I pulled on at the super low starting undercling and went to the top of the boulder. Unfortunately, neither Chris nor Anthony sent this one, but at least they have something to send next time we make the long hike up to the Druids!

Chris Chen starting "Denton's Remorse" (v10).

The Sierras from the Druids.

The edge of Bishop and the White Mountains from the Druids.

Bishop and the Whites.

Myself, sending "Denton's Remorse" (v10).

Pulling perfect patina edges on Denton's Remorse.

The difficult lockoff on "Denton's Remorse."

Bishop, and the Volcanic Tableland north of town, from the hike out from the Druid Stones.

Chris and Christine had to head home on Sunday evening, but on Monday, Anthony and I gave Culin a tour of the Happy Boulders. Culin was able to send the classic The Hulk, Anthony sent some link up that didn't quite appear to be Disco Hulk, but might as well have been, and I pulled off Disco Diva. Of course, in typical Anthony Tarascio style, he brought a Nightmare Before Christmas Santa Hat for us both to send in, photo evidence below.

Anthony, sending in his sending hat.

Me doing the same on "Disco Diva" (v8)

 

We made the quick four-hour drive back to LA, and I've spent the last couple of days setting up at Boulderdash. This weekend, I hope to get back out to Malibu Creek a couple of times, so let's see if next week we can have an update about what chains I've clipped out there.

Stay psyched, climb safe, and see you out there!