Saturday, June 26, 2010

Black Mt, Summit Area, yet again

We went back to the Summit area last Sunday and explored the hillside from Bang On, through the "Round Boulders" to the lookout tower. There is so much rock at Black that it's hard to remember that there are probably a hundred other hillsides with just as much untouched rock as this one. For those that have been paying attention, I did come closer to sending Expatriot this time. If you've seen the video, I fell trying to snatch the left hand crimp below the lip, the last left hand hold before your right hand is on a massive jug and the climb is over. I don't think I'll make it back there this weekend though, as I gotta help a friend move tomorrow, so I'm off to the gym now. Enjoy your weekend everyone!

(Always proofrad. You might have something out.)

Wednesday, June 02, 2010


I went back to Black Mt on both Saturday and Monday. Saturday I headed up for a full day with Marina, and Monday I went up with Maya and her brother Alon. Both days I was determined to send Ex-Patriot, and both days I left empty handed. I know all climbers obsess over projects at times, but this thing is really becoming an epic for me. Luckily I continue to leave with new beta and I make progress every day on it. At this point, I get to the block in the middle of the roof every time and each time I screw up slightly differently. For video reference, check out Ian's ascent here:

With any luck, I'll send Ex-Pat next day up there, but it certainly is a great excuse for wandering the hillside up around the summit area of Black Mountain. There are SOOOO many boulders, and you never know if you're climbing something that a hundred people have already climbed or getting a first ascent.

Ex-Pat, rapidly becoming my nemesis. I foolishly thought I would have it in the bag if I stuck this move, but I keep falling two and a half moves past this point.

A dyno uphill from the visor.

An amazing slab, not too far away from there.

An OK view.

running a lap on the visor to warm up. a classic lowball.

this dyno didn't have any chalk on it before I started trying it, but it is very obvious and could quite possibly have been done before. It's maybe 50 yards from the dyno in the second picture. there are sort of holds that could yield a sit start, but the resulting climb would be way out of my league. Where all the v15 climbers at?