Monday, November 28, 2011

A Day in Black Velvet Canyon

Sunday I met Hans, Elliot, and others out at Black Velvet Canyon for an awesome day of bouldering.

Hans warming up by linking "Wet Dream Right" (v11) to its top (He sent the problem previously)

Elliot working the same.

A helicopter made laps (drills?) in  and out of the canyon.

Hans working "Wet Dream"


Myself working out the upper moves of "Wet Dream Right."
Hans attempting to repeat "The Fountainhead"

We all also sent a fun little slopey crimp line that I guess is called American Gothic (the name is more exciting than the boulder in my opinion) before heading back down to The Fountainhead. Although nobody sent WD or WD Right, we all made progress, and I've got an awesome new project to be obsessed with.

Stay psyched and see you out there!

Saturday, November 26, 2011


I spent the Friday after Thanksgiving out bouldering at Red Springs and the Kraft Boulders. My goal was to finish UltraViolet (v8/9), which I fell off the last move of last January first. I ran into Craig and Elliot, whom I know from Black Mountain, and the three of us warmed up and charged up the hill to the striking overhung arete.
The hillside above Red Springs
Craig executing the first move of UltraViolet (v8/9)
And not quite sticking the third.
 I couldn't pull out the first try send, but got it within a handful of efforts with a little bit of a yell on the crux move.

Myself starting up "UltraViolet"
The definitive crux of the problem, a long deadpoint off of a horrible right hand crimp to a left hand edge.

The other hard, long move, which thankfully goes from and to much better holds than the first crux.
Jugs to the top. Psyched!

From UltraViolet we hiked over to the well-known crimp testpiece, Vigilante (v10?), which looks like it has broken and would be super hard in its current state, and then headed over to the Kraft boulders to finish the day on a fun easier circuit.

Craig on the dyno of "Dusty's Coffee"
Elliot, deep in the plumber's crack.
Many classic moderates with fantastic holds abound on the generally less than highball boulders littering the hillside below Kraft Mt, and it made for a nice finish to a memorable day. Having started bouldering here when I was a kid, these boulders will always hold a special place in my heart.

Today I'm resting, and tomorrow I'm super psyched to be heading out with friends to Black Velvet Canyon and Ethan Pringle's masterpiece boulder problem, Wet Dream. More photos soon.

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Bishop ...

I spent last weekend, my "week after birthday weekend," in Bishop with a great group of friends. After a cold Friday night we arose to a beautiful Saturday, which we decided to spend in the Buttermilks.

Basin Mountain and Mt Tom, as seen from the Birthday Boulders
Anthony working out the bottom of "Haroun and the Sea of Stories," my new obsession.
"Little T" working the magic on "Haroun..."
Bishop local, Andrew, shows us the beta on "Fall Guy" (the v9 stand to "Haroun.")
Mt Tom
A friend of Itai's from Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, Joe, sending "Fall Guy."

Max only gave it a couple shots, but looked strong, as usual.

Liberty making a fast send of "Fly Boy Arete" (v5)
One of many in the lineup attempting "Fly Boy Sit" (v8)
Myself on "Fly Boy Sit," just before the send.

Anthony cruising "Fly Boy Sit" with multiple stuffed animals taped to his arms. Yes, you read that right.

Joe on "Seven Spanish Angels" (über hard v6)

Anthony sippin his victory Maker's and Brett sending so he can share.

That's what Brett dynoing looks like.


On Sunday there was a low-lying cloud over the valley. Word on the street was three inches of snow in the Buttermilks, so we headed over to the Volcanic Tableland and climbed at the Sads.

Brett contemplating the name "Half Sharkalligator Half Man"
Anthony attempting the "Half Sharkalligator Half Man," an infamous Dan Mills v11.

From there we went up to Pow Pow, (v7/8? I seriously can't tell what's V8 anymore as some of them feel super easy and some of them feel suuuper hard) which I sent in a few tries, and then deep into the Ice Caves, where Anthony worked Beautiful Gecko and Max sent Beefcake. As Max topped out, we realized it was full on raining, so Brett and I packed it up and headed back to LA.

It was a great fun, action-packed weekend, and I can't wait to get back up to Bishop. Now I am in Vegas for Thanksgiving and will be doing some bouldering around Red Rocks over the next few days.

Stay psyched everyone, and Happy Thanksgiving!