Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Back in Black (Mt)

We went back to Black Mountain on Saturday. I did not send the object of my desire, "Ex-Patriot," but the whole crew crushed plenty of other stuff. If you have not been to Black Mountain lately (or ever!) I highly recommend taking a trip, if only a day, up there before full on summer sets in and it gets too hot to crank up there. Get it in now or wait till the Fall.

Seriously though, folks, there is no place in SoCal with the quality and quantity of Black Mountain. Get at it.

Brett trying what I dubbed "The Litterbox," which we believe
I snagged as a first ascent, but you never know up there.
It's behind the "Pink Crack" at Boulder Basin and probably in the V6 - 7 range.

Brett crushing "Transmaniacon" for his first ever v9.

Itai sending "Transmaniacon"

Itai attempting "Bang On"

Itai working "Ex-Patriot." With any luck, we can all send this weekend.

Monday, May 17, 2010

Black Mt Sunday

Jeff crushing a super aesthetic arete.

Brett completing the same

Marina working out the Visor

Brett trying magic beta on Expatriot. This line is simply amazing

Myself attempting to get through that sick roof.

This thing has become my new obsession. For me it is super hard. Here is a video of Ian sending it.

Tuesday, May 11, 2010


Sunday I went to Black Mountain with Patrick Luther, and we met up with another group, which included our buddy Alan Moore. We warmed up at the OK Corral on some classic moderates and then tried the classic toughy, OK Arete (which Patrick hiked).

Alan Moore on OK Arete.

Enrique the German on OK Arete

After a sufficient warmup, we headed over to Loh Roof, which three of us grabbed sends of.

Matuse rocks the Loh Roof.

After some rest and a few beta-gleaning burns, Patrick pulled off the third ascent (after Ian McIntosh and Alan) of Lobotomy, v11, a gorgeous line to the right of Loh Roof.

Matuse on the starting moves of Lobotomy

Lock in the knee bar

Patrick locking that knee to reach the undercling.

Trying reeeally hard to hold that tension.

Pulling it off and standing up into the hold.

A stone's throw to the left is a massive highball. A few moderate lines and surely some scary, desperate projects exist on this massive granite block.

As you can see, it was about this time that the cloud we'd basically been climbing in all day started to get really thick.

Patrick just coming short on Morphic Resonance (v10).

All in all it was an awesome day, and I look forward to next week's Black Mountain session.