Tuesday, May 11, 2010


Sunday I went to Black Mountain with Patrick Luther, and we met up with another group, which included our buddy Alan Moore. We warmed up at the OK Corral on some classic moderates and then tried the classic toughy, OK Arete (which Patrick hiked).

Alan Moore on OK Arete.

Enrique the German on OK Arete

After a sufficient warmup, we headed over to Loh Roof, which three of us grabbed sends of.

Matuse rocks the Loh Roof.

After some rest and a few beta-gleaning burns, Patrick pulled off the third ascent (after Ian McIntosh and Alan) of Lobotomy, v11, a gorgeous line to the right of Loh Roof.

Matuse on the starting moves of Lobotomy

Lock in the knee bar

Patrick locking that knee to reach the undercling.

Trying reeeally hard to hold that tension.

Pulling it off and standing up into the hold.

A stone's throw to the left is a massive highball. A few moderate lines and surely some scary, desperate projects exist on this massive granite block.

As you can see, it was about this time that the cloud we'd basically been climbing in all day started to get really thick.

Patrick just coming short on Morphic Resonance (v10).

All in all it was an awesome day, and I look forward to next week's Black Mountain session.

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