Black Mt Fridays!

For starters, I apologize for the lack of updates lately. Between starting my new job as head routesetter at Boulderdash, up in Thousand Oaks, setting another two or so days a week at Rockreation LA, coaching, preparing for my first semi-private clinic at Rockreation coming up tomorrow, and catching up with Game of Thrones, I can't say I've had enough time to make updating this here blog a priority. l. o. l.

Today I returned from two days in San Diego, where I was coaching at USA Climbing sport climbing Divisional Championships. I'm very proud to report that Natalie took fourth in girls B and Charlie took first in male Jr. in difficulty and speed. Looks like a few of us from LA will be heading to Atlanta for Nationals next month. (Which really isn't anything new for either of those two.)

As for my personal climbing, I've been getting out to Black Mt. for the past few Fridays. Sean, Jenny, Marina, and Anthony have rounded out the crew on various weeks. Lots of fun has been had, boulders have been discovered, and I've even continued to make progress on what we've now jokingly dubbed the "Pissed Pollo Project" (affectionately named after Itai Axelrad's try hard sound, but not necessarily the name that will stick if and when I ever actually send the thing).

obligatory Pink Crack warm up photo. Jenny Balmagia crushing.

Forgive me for the repetitive nature of the pics of this project, but I think it's a beautiful line and it's certainly my current obsession.

A few Fridays ago, we basically ended up climbing in a cloud in freezing conditions ... but I tried the pissed pollo proj anyway. Here I am doing the first move ...

... aand the second ...

... and holy crap look at that, I actually stuck the third move once! (Marina Campaña photos)

The cloud we were freezing / attempting to climb in

Sean sending "Born Under Punches" (v7)

A beautiful arete we found just under "Born Under Punches." Apparently it was not an FA.

Myself sending the same. (Jenny Balmagia photo)

This was the following week. Clearly some days are nicer than others! Sean Denny warms up in the sun.

Jenny Balmagia warming up on an unnamed v2.

Here is a view of the proj in all its glory. Can you tell why I'm obsessed?

Same move, different day. (Jenny Balmagia photos)

Trying to make the super technical heel-hook stay on the second move.

Figuring out magic "heel-hook on a spike above my head and hands" beta

Sometimes I've just gotta look around up there to remind myself how beautiful it is.

 

Jenny on "Born Under Punches" (v7)

Super close, though no send just yet.

Sean on an unnamed v5ish sloper problem below the lookout tower.

Myself sending the unnamed crimp line adjacent to the sloper problem.

And some pics from this most recent Friday. Left the camera in the bag for the attempts on the project this time.

 aaalmost executing the first move of "Bang On"

playing on the third move (of four)

Anthony sending NRA

Great view from the "Round Boulders" sector

Next weekend I'll be climbing on Vegas limestone and giving Charlie, Nat, and others a tour of Mt. Charleston, but the following I'll be back up at Black for the annual "Black Mt. Bash" (June 23rd).  Be there or be square.