Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Quick Update: BMBash, Nationals, Charleston, and the 'Bu.

I'm surprised by how neglectful I've been of this blog over the last several weeks (month). I'll try to stay more on top of it, as there is a lot to mention but I don't want to write a novel of an update.
For starters, one weekend back in June I hit up Black Mt for two days with Itai Axelrad during the annual Black Mountain Bash. Below is a pic of Itai attempting Bang On. I'll spare the details of that trip, during which I took my camera out very little, but you can read Itai's report here:

Itai Axelrad attemping "Bang On"(v12)
 The week following the Bash, I headed to Atlanta to coach at USA Climbing SCS (Sport Climbing Series) Youth National Championships. The event ran totally smoothly, with few interruptions or setbacks, and the route setting was great overall. Natalie and Charlie both made it to finals, taking 7th and 10th respectively, with Charlie also taking 5th in speed (meaning he'll be representing the U.S. at Youth World Championships in Singapore) and Culin took 28th in his category.  Also, in an awesome (and rightfully deserved!) turn of events, Charlie was awarded the North Face Young Gun Award, which is awarded each season to one exemplary young competition climber.

Richard Boyle on the Male A/JR final route.
Charlie Andrews, flanked by the other Young Gun finalists, Dylan Barks and Alex Fritz.
After a few days of setting like mad up in Thousand Oaks, following Nationals, I headed to Vegas for a few days of limestone sport climbing. I got back on Closing Down and although I'm not quite making redpoint attempts yet, I did reach a new personal high point and feel much more confident on the bottom part of the route. Hooray for progress.

The Compton Cave is Hardland, home to such testpieces as "The Equalizer" (13a), "Closing Down"/"Facile" (14a/b), "Legend"/"Legend of the Overfiend" (14a/b), "Hasta La Vista" (14c), "Free at Last" (13d), and "Straight Outta Compton" (12d), "Animal Attack" (12b/13b), and "The Energizer" (13a), as well as a couple of unclimbed projects.
Mike Bond on "Animal Attack" (12b)
A sick looking old Jason Campbell project climbs out of that lower sub-cave, up the gently overhanging wall and out the black-streaked roof before pulling the headwall. It's one for the future for sure.
Bill Kryst sending "Animal Attack."

Just more undeveloped limestone. NBD.

The multi-pitch routes of the Imagination Wall sure do get the imagination going.
Back in LA, I've been trying to maintain and capitalize on this sport climbing psych by projecting some lines out at Malibu Creek with Charlie. I've now come close on Brenna (13d) again, and done most of the moves of the full line, Lateralus. Charlie sent Ghetto Crossing (13a), which links into the top of Lateralus, so when he sticks that crux move from the bottom he should be clipping chains. Psyched for both of us to send these lines!

Charlie Andrews working Shawn Diamond's Malibu Creek testpiece, "Lateralus" (14a).

I got back up to Black Mt with the crew this past weekend, but I'm going to post those photos in a seperate update. Other than that, I've just been setting 4 days a week lately. It's a rough job, I know, but somebody's gotta do it.

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